1968 Porsche 911S Soft Window Targa
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IDS Restoration by Bieker Engineering - Car is now running extremely well
Cost was $1390, but I am told that is worthwhile compared to other options.
One year only 5.5" Fuchs - dates stamped 1968
Gauges and dash were featured in Bruce Anderson's book
Bruce sent prior owner a camera and film.
Cold start Mom's garage:
A trip in Calistoga. Having a car you drive frequently around town and on trips means all
the bugs have to be worked out, and EVERYTHING gets fixed, so this has been a money pit.
But first I need to do $2,650 of minor body work, rust abatement
Outer right rocker - will do longitudinal while in there and then other side.
Rust bubble on fender. Rust hole in door end. Rust along engine lid. Small dent in hood.
Surface rust on bumpers and valence. Small rust near rocker receiver area.
Engine lid straightening. Front pan is not 100% original, but very well done and strong.
Need to run new lines for Webasco heater. Fix tear in driver's side leather seat. Address speaker holes in door cards.
Small surface hole in targa top - headliner is good - needs lots of cleanup still.
Distributor cap is not 100% original. Need to reroute speedo cable and reconnect.
Have estimates for all of that at least.
Dream Images of Goal Car:
Rockers: 12h per side
The rockers will need the exterior removed, along with a portion of the rear fender/door jamb area.
The inner rocker will be assessed at that time, although replacement will probably be advisable regardless
as a while-we're-in-there. There is a small support structure at the front, inside the rocker, that is usually
rusted out as well. I rebuild this structure from scratch and then all pieces are cleaned, rust-converted,
and then primered with a rust preventing, zinc rich primer and then painted for lasting protection.
Outer Rockers - $98 per side
Inner Rockers - $90 per side
Jack Receiver Plate - $24 per side
Jack Tube - $32 per side
Rocker Panel Support - $35 per side
Soft Top Snaps: 1h total
To reattach the soft top snap, I should simply have to sand away the paint in that area.
It appeared that the previous body shop simply Bondo'd over the holes and their laziness is our gain.
Driver's Side Door: 2h total
The rust along the rear edge of the inner door on the driver side should be one of the easier patches.
The latch mechanism will be removed while the door panel is off for the skin repair. The patch is fairly straight
forward and there are no complications that come to mind. The shape of the metal in that area is fairly rigid
and warping won't be a problem.
Engine Lid: 3.5h total
The rust bubbles along the bottom edge of the lid should be repair by removing the lid from the car,
removing all the paint from the affected area, then welding in custom patches. This area is slightly tricky
because the top layer of metal is right next to the inner structure. So cutting one out without affecting the other
is delicate. The welding will also discolor and burn the exterior paint.
For reference, the fiberglass lid we talked about is available from Getty Design for $419.
Door Skins: 5h total
These patches will repair the exterior surface of the door. The door panels will need to be removed to clean
the inner metal prior to welding, as well as to allow access for a little post-weld hammer and dolly work. This area is
large and relatively flat (no strong corners). I strive to minimize shrinking and warping, but there is always some that can't
be helped. A _minimal_ amount of body filler in the paint stage will make the repair unnoticeable and is really the only solution
beyond spending hours upon hours metal working.